FIBERGLASS BASICS - EASIER THAN YOU THINK!

Is the word "fiberglass" intimidating to you? When you think of fiberglass, you would imagine that you need a completely new set of expertise. You're halfway there if you've ever used, or should I say mixed, Bondo. Working with fiberglass may be both efficient and straightforward. The key to a successful fiberglass repair is planning ahead of time. Check that you have all of the necessary equipment. You'll need:

• Fiberglass mesh or, better yet, a fiberglass kit contains enough material to repair a rather broad region. 
• Purchase a nice pair of rubber gloves.
• Depending on the size of the repair, a piece of cardboard will be required for mixing the resin/hardener.
• The second piece of cardboard and some duct tape (read below)
• A good industrial or, at the very least, a razor-sharp scissor
• For applying the resin, use an old little paintbrush or some cheap acid brushes.

When you're ready to repair fiberglass and have all of your fiberglass supplies, you'll want to thoroughly examine the damage. This is extremely easily overlooked. When fiberglass is damaged in an accident, it typically cracks, even if the gaps are hairline. They may not appear to be much, but they will show up when it comes time to paint, and they will certainly show up over time. Primers cannot be used to form a bridge over broken fiberglass, and Bondo (body filler) does not last forever. You must scrape down all of the damaged regions!

To begin, clean the area where you will be grinding. You'll want to grind the region and all the small cracks down to at least a 1/16-inch thickness. Go ahead and grind some more if you can. If you can get behind the damage, such as on a semi's hood, you can grind the inside as well. This is the correct method to go about it, but I've had fantastic results either way.

Measure the area where you have ground with a tape measure. If it's 10 inches, you'll need thirty inches of fiberglass matting. When repairing fiberglass, it is critical to lay down three layers of mesh tangled together to achieve the necessary strength to hold the patch together indefinitely. You don't want any more vibrations or little bumps to shatter your fix. Of course, you cut it large enough to cover the hole. Most fiberglass repairs will necessitate the use of a backing plate behind the massive hole. This is where the second piece of cardboard comes into play. Cut the piece an inch or so larger all the way around than the damaged region. Now comes the duct tape. Tape it in place and you're set to go for the time being. You'll have to find a method to get behind it. Use what works for you. I've had it where I couldn't reach behind it, so I had to delicately nurse it from the front side, holding it securely in place till it was set up, use your gloves, you'll be fine.

Now comes the fun part: combining the fiberglass and the resin. The bonding ingredient is resin, which is blended with the hardener to form a solid bond. It's similar to combining body fillers. It essentially employs the same hardener and mixing method. The following steps can be completed in a variety of ways:

• Pour out enough resin to completely coat all of the mesh parts. Most repairs will necessitate a 1/2 cup or more. Don't skimp here; you want enough to coat the glass. If you pour it into a container, keep track of how much is in there. Fill the container with a few inches of hardener and start mixing. If it's hot, you'll only have about 10 minutes to work, so have your fiberglass mesh ready. Take your resin mixture over to the vehicle you're working on and liberally brush the resin around the damaged area, applying it as thickly as your brush will allow, but be careful not to let it run onto the floor or the tires.
• Another clumsier method I've seen is to dump the resin onto the cardboard and mix it there. Dredge your mesh in it until it is covered... like chicken. Caution, this is really dirty; I shake my head when I see it, but it will coat the mesh, the workstation, and you very thoroughly. Paint it on using the first procedure.
• Take the cut mesh and press it around the edge of the area where you'll be putting the resin; you want it all to soak in simultaneously. Apply one piece of mesh at a time, allowing you to thoroughly soak each piece for a strong fix. If you have a cardboard backer, it will most likely be a permanent element of the repair. If you want it removed, you must work carefully before the resin hardens, but you must avoid allowing the fiberglass to fall into the hole, so allow it to set up a little and work swiftly. Apply resin over the entire mesh once the first piece is in place, then repeat with the remaining three pieces. Don't be concerned if the fiberglass matting appears to be falling apart; this is a good sign. The stronger the repair, the more interwoven the components are.
• Allow the fix to set until it is as hard as a rock. To begin flattening and forming it out, grind on it or use a sander with 36 grit sandpaper. DO NOT sand through the fiberglass around the repair's margins; this is why we ground it down another 1/16". It should hold and sit there without issue; you'll be grinding and finishing with a couple of applications of Bondo.
• Once the repair has been set up and grounds down, it may be worthwhile to evaluate the strength of the repair. It should not give way; instead, you should be able to press on it while seeing the remainder of the panel move in and out with you. Repeat the fiberglass phases if necessary, adding a few extra pieces and gluing them to the strongest areas.
• If you believe the repair is strong enough, blow it off thoroughly and start with the Bondo. If you haven't read Bondo Basics - The Art of Bondo yet, now is the time; you'll want to read that before you start working with fiberglass.

That's all there is to it; you can fix practically anything using fiberglass. If done correctly, you'll be able to patch boats, put a front end on a Corvette, repair or replace a headlight bucket on your beloved Semi, and I've even fixed bumper covers with it, so forget about bumper repair kits!

Ben is currently the owner of New Surface, a local auto body shop located in Elk Grove CA. The veteran in the auto body and paint industry. After years of answering endless questions, he has decided to write down in layman's terms the tools and techniques to assist all who are interested in fiberglass repair in Elk Grove CA. Whether you're a hobbyist or a seasoned professional, there is always a slick shortcut, a new product, or just something that you never knew before.fiberglass repair in Elk Grove CA